Zao Quasi National Park and Okama crater

After a brief visit to the Shiroishi Castle, we visited the Zao Area. Zao lies an hour's drive away from Sendai, the biggest city in northern Japan.

The Zao mountain range lies between Miyagi and Yamagata prefectures in north eastern Japan. The Zao mountain range is actually a cluster of strato-volcanoes with many active volcanic terrains. The area is part of the Zao Quasi National park and is a popular tourist destination. The park was opened in 1963 and is spread over an area of 400 square kms  filled with gorges, rivers and waterfalls, marshlands, beech forests and alpine vegetation. During winter Zao is a popular skiing destination due to the abundant snowfall in the region. Many popular skiing resorts are located in Zao area. The strong winds blowing from Siberia create Juhyo monsters, snow covered trees which resemble monsters.

The highest mountain in Zao is Mt Kumanodake (1841 meters). The central volcano of the Zao mountain range is Mt Goshikidake (1674 meters). A volcanic eruption of Goshikidake in early 18^th century led to the formation of the “Okama” crater lake. 

It is called Okama owing to it’s resemblance to a tea kettle, (“okama’ in Japanese).  The lake is 200 feet deep, measures 1 km in circumference and has a diameter of 325 metres. The lake is also known as “Goshikinuma” or “Five coloured pond” because the colour of the lake changes according to the angle of sunlight.

The colour ranges from emerald green to turquoise blue depending on the weather. When we visited in early May, the lake was still frozen, but we did get to see the colour difference. 

The surrounding Mt Kattadake(1759 meters) still had some snow and we had to tread through a patch of snow to get a good view of the lake.

The volcanic mountain sides are various hues of red and brown 

The Kattamine Jinja is situated on top of Mt Kattadake which offers a commanding view of the Zao mountain range and the Okama crater. 

Another Kattamine Shrine, popularly called Shirotori Daimyojin, because of the custom of worshipping swans as the messengers of god,  is located in Miya, closer to the Shiroishi IC on Tohoku expressway.

It is possible to take a chairlift from the foot of Mt Kattadake to the top to view the Okama crater lake and the mountains. A round trip is priced at 700 yen per head. We chose to drive up to the top and skipped taking the chairlift.

The 26 km long Zao Echo line is a picturesque road which connects Miyagi and Yamagata prefectures. The road was opened in 1962 and offers good views of Zao mountain range. Driving along the Zao Echo Line visitors reach the Takimidai Waterfall Viewing Point. 

The lookout offers a good view of the Sankai waterfalls (181 meters high) and the Fudo taki waterfalls ( 53.5 meter) high.

Driving a little ahead is the Fudo taki lookout. 

A statue of Fudo stands at the entrance to the short walking trail to the lookout. The road is closed during winter. A part of the Echoline was still under snow and we drove through a few snow corridors.   

Togatta onsen town lies at the foot of the Zao. The footbath in the centre of the town is popular among visitors. The visitor information centre situated next to it has lots of booklets and guides (also in English) and the staff are helpful ( unfortunately not in English, but broken Japanese works too). "Koi no bori" (carp streamers) were strung above a river flowing through Togatta for the upcoming Kodomo no Hi. 

Zao is famous for its milk farming and while driving from Shiroishi to Zao, we passed by the Zao Milk Farm. Visitors can experience milking cows. The other famous product of Zao is its handmade sausages. Visitors can experience Sausage making for a fee . Zao’s cheese and milk treats are popular “Omiyage” (souvenirs) among visitors. Zao has it’s own version of the Kokeshi doll. We couldn’t resist picking up one.

Fees: 520 yen for a mid sized car ( Toll for Zao Echo line)

Access: Zao machi, Katta-gun, Miyagi Prefecture

Phone: 0224-34-2725 (Information centre in Togatta)

Shiroishi Castle

Our Golden week trip to Naruko area was combined with a visit to Zao and Shiroishi.
Shiroishi town’s most popular sight is the Shiroishi Castle.

 The castle is situated atop a hill overlooking the city and the outlying Zao mountain range.

This castle was originally the residence of Katakura clan, the retainers of the Date clan, the family of Date Masamune.

The original castle was built in the Kamakura era and served as an important meeting place during the Boshin War . It was demolished in 1875 and the current structure is a 1995 reconstruction which has restored the castle’s original Japanese architecture.

The castle’s tower offers a panoramic view of the Zao Mountain range.
A shrine stands next to the Shiroishi castle.

 A sundial that we saw on the grounds of the shrine. 

On the Geyser trail : Naruko, Onikobe and Jigokudani

During the Golden week holidays this year, we visited the Naruko onsen area in Miyagi prefecture.

Naruko is a popular onsen area in Miyagi prefecture in Japan .Our main reason for visiting Naruko area was to view the geysers in Onikobe. Onikobe is a little distance away from Naruko town. We drove past Naruko dam, Lake Arao and  picturesque snow covered mountains to reach Onikobe. 

We passed by an interesting “Oni” bridge on our way. 

“Oni” is the Japanese word for “demon” or “ogre” and the Onikobe area has a folklore associated with an ogre !

The highlight of Onikobe is the Onikobe Geyser which is also known as “Benten” geyser. 

Hot water sprays up  like a fountain as high as twenty meters high at times, every 10 minutes.  Visitors eagerly await this spectacle. 

Water temperature ranges between 100 deg C - 120 deg C. 

A small “rotenburo”, open air bath is located closeby. 

It was closed during our visit but we got to have a look. An “Ashi-yu” (foot-bath) close by has boiling hot water, a boon for tired feet.An “Omiyage” (souvenir) store sells food and other souvenirs. Visitors can also purchase eggs which they can then boil in the small covered hot spring pit closeby.

Entrance fees: 400 yen ( Adults)

Address:  Aza Fukiage, Onikobe , Naruko Onsen, Osaki- shi, 989-6941, Miyagi Prefecture

Phone: 0229-86-2233

Closed: Winter ( December to March)

Parking: Free parking available (20 cars)

Located a few hundred metres from the Onikobe geyser is “Jigokudani”. “Jigokudani” translates as “hell valley”, appropriate for a place that resembles a volcanic hell. Jigokudani is also referred to as “Katayama Jigoku” of “Fukiage Jigoku” valley.

 A 1.2 km long walking trail leads past many hot geysers. Boiling water flows from beneath rocks and small outlets. A few geysers blow out hot water fountains every few minutes. 

Visitors bring eggs to boil them in the flowing hot water.

One particular geyser made a strong sound of boiling water and we waited patiently for about 25 minutes before the geyser obliged us with a spectacular show. It was worth the wait. 

At the end of the trail is a waterfall. 

Opening days: 365 days

Opening hours: Round the clock

Entrance fees: Free

Parking: Free parking available.

Access: Follow the signboard on the left side of the road (while driving up from Naruko town) just before the road leading to Onikobe geyser.

After visiting Onikobe and Jigokudani, we drove back to Naruko.The Naruko Onsen area comprises of five hot springs scattered Naruko town- Naruko, Higashi Naruko, Onikobe, Kawatabi and Nakayamadaira. The speciality of the onsens in this area is the presence of sodium chloride and sodium bicarbonate in the hot spring water. The water is used for therapeutic diseases and as such the onsen area is visited by people with chronic ailments. Needless to say the entire area is full of bath houses.

We visited Waseda Onsen in Naruko. This Bath House was is named after a group of students from Tokyo’s Waseda University who visited Naruko after the World War II to learn about well drilling and successfully discovered a hot spring. This bath house is popular among visitors.

(Admission Yen 500 per adult and Yen 300 per child. Additional 1000 yen for using the Family Bath. Towels available for sale.  Phone: 0229-83-4751. Opening Hours: 9:00-22:00 hrs) 


Naruko area is also popular as one of the largest manufacturers of the Kokeshi dolls.  Kokeshi dolls are said to have originated in the Tohoku region and Naruko is one of the towns which claims to have been one of it's original makers. 

No wonder the Kokeshi doll can be seen everywhere even along the roads.

Read more about the Kokeshi dolls in this earlier post 

Our last stop in Naruko area was the Katanuma swamp.

This caldera lake was formed during a volcanic eruption and the high acidic content gives the lake’s water a turquoise blue colour. 

In fact, Katanuma has the reputation of being the lake with the highest acidity levels in Japan.  Katanuma reminded us of the Bishamon pond on the Goshikinuma trail in Bandai. 

Our visit in late April coincided with the Cherry Blossom season and Naruko to had it's share of Sakura blooming.

We drove to the Shiraito falls near Naruko on our way back, but we found it average after having visited many other spectacular waterfalls in Japan. 

Naruko Kyo ( Gorge) is a popular destination among visitors especially in October-November when the autumn foliage is at its best. Abundant snow in winter makes Naruko a popular skiing area. However the Onikobe geyser and Jigokudani are closed during the winter.