On the Geyser trail : Naruko, Onikobe and Jigokudani

During the Golden week holidays this year, we visited the Naruko onsen area in Miyagi prefecture.

Naruko is a popular onsen area in Miyagi prefecture in Japan .Our main reason for visiting Naruko area was to view the geysers in Onikobe. Onikobe is a little distance away from Naruko town. We drove past Naruko dam, Lake Arao and  picturesque snow covered mountains to reach Onikobe. 

We passed by an interesting “Oni” bridge on our way. 

“Oni” is the Japanese word for “demon” or “ogre” and the Onikobe area has a folklore associated with an ogre !

The highlight of Onikobe is the Onikobe Geyser which is also known as “Benten” geyser. 

Hot water sprays up  like a fountain as high as twenty meters high at times, every 10 minutes.  Visitors eagerly await this spectacle. 

Water temperature ranges between 100 deg C - 120 deg C. 

A small “rotenburo”, open air bath is located closeby. 

It was closed during our visit but we got to have a look. An “Ashi-yu” (foot-bath) close by has boiling hot water, a boon for tired feet.An “Omiyage” (souvenir) store sells food and other souvenirs. Visitors can also purchase eggs which they can then boil in the small covered hot spring pit closeby.

Entrance fees: 400 yen ( Adults)

Address:  Aza Fukiage, Onikobe , Naruko Onsen, Osaki- shi, 989-6941, Miyagi Prefecture

Phone: 0229-86-2233

Closed: Winter ( December to March)

Parking: Free parking available (20 cars)

Located a few hundred metres from the Onikobe geyser is “Jigokudani”. “Jigokudani” translates as “hell valley”, appropriate for a place that resembles a volcanic hell. Jigokudani is also referred to as “Katayama Jigoku” of “Fukiage Jigoku” valley.

 A 1.2 km long walking trail leads past many hot geysers. Boiling water flows from beneath rocks and small outlets. A few geysers blow out hot water fountains every few minutes. 

Visitors bring eggs to boil them in the flowing hot water.

One particular geyser made a strong sound of boiling water and we waited patiently for about 25 minutes before the geyser obliged us with a spectacular show. It was worth the wait. 

At the end of the trail is a waterfall. 

Opening days: 365 days

Opening hours: Round the clock

Entrance fees: Free

Parking: Free parking available.

Access: Follow the signboard on the left side of the road (while driving up from Naruko town) just before the road leading to Onikobe geyser.

After visiting Onikobe and Jigokudani, we drove back to Naruko.The Naruko Onsen area comprises of five hot springs scattered Naruko town- Naruko, Higashi Naruko, Onikobe, Kawatabi and Nakayamadaira. The speciality of the onsens in this area is the presence of sodium chloride and sodium bicarbonate in the hot spring water. The water is used for therapeutic diseases and as such the onsen area is visited by people with chronic ailments. Needless to say the entire area is full of bath houses.

We visited Waseda Onsen in Naruko. This Bath House was is named after a group of students from Tokyo’s Waseda University who visited Naruko after the World War II to learn about well drilling and successfully discovered a hot spring. This bath house is popular among visitors.

(Admission Yen 500 per adult and Yen 300 per child. Additional 1000 yen for using the Family Bath. Towels available for sale.  Phone: 0229-83-4751. Opening Hours: 9:00-22:00 hrs) 


Naruko area is also popular as one of the largest manufacturers of the Kokeshi dolls.  Kokeshi dolls are said to have originated in the Tohoku region and Naruko is one of the towns which claims to have been one of it's original makers. 

No wonder the Kokeshi doll can be seen everywhere even along the roads.

Read more about the Kokeshi dolls in this earlier post 

Our last stop in Naruko area was the Katanuma swamp.

This caldera lake was formed during a volcanic eruption and the high acidic content gives the lake’s water a turquoise blue colour. 

In fact, Katanuma has the reputation of being the lake with the highest acidity levels in Japan.  Katanuma reminded us of the Bishamon pond on the Goshikinuma trail in Bandai. 

Our visit in late April coincided with the Cherry Blossom season and Naruko to had it's share of Sakura blooming.

We drove to the Shiraito falls near Naruko on our way back, but we found it average after having visited many other spectacular waterfalls in Japan. 

Naruko Kyo ( Gorge) is a popular destination among visitors especially in October-November when the autumn foliage is at its best. Abundant snow in winter makes Naruko a popular skiing area. However the Onikobe geyser and Jigokudani are closed during the winter.

Hitachi Seaside Park : A Floral Paradise

Recently we visited the Hitachi seaside Park. This was our second visit to the park, the first one being in summer of 2010. While the first visit was in the scorching and humid Japanese summer, the recent visit was perhaps the best time to visit the park.

Hitachi Kaihin Koen or Hitachi seaside park is spread over 153 hectares of land close to Hitachi city’s Pacific coast. The park is best known for its seasonal flowers-  Daffodils and Tulips in spring,  Nemophilia and Rose in early summer and Kochia and cosmos in autumn.

Our visit coincided with the blooming period of Tulips, Nemophilia and Daffodils.

Nemophilia are little blue flowers which get their name from the Greek words "nemos" ( small forest) and "phileo" (love). These flowers are also called baby blue eyes. 

Miharashi no Oka is a hillock whose sides were covered with Nemophilia when we visited. 

Pathways on the hillock lead to the top of the hill from where a good view of the Pacific ocean and the seaside park can be enjoyed.

The blooming period is called “Nemophilia Harmony” and attracts many visitors.

About a million daffodils(narcissus) bloom in the Suisen garden amidst pine trees.

Tamago no Mori Flower garden had about 170 varieties of tulips blooming in all colours. 

The place looked like a multicoloured carpet.

A replica of a Dutch windmill stands amidst the tulips, giving visitors the feel of strolling in Holland’s Keukenhof gardens.  

Many other flowers were also blooming in the park.

Kominka is a recreation of an old house. 

It has exhibits used in daily life in countryside homes and is truly educational for schoolgoing children.

Giant carp streamers called "Koi no bori" which are hung during Children's Day were flying on a high pole outside the Kominka.

A lake known as “West Lake” and a water stage stand close to the Nishiguchi ( west gate) of the park.

The seaside park is a good place to visit for a day trip with family or friends.

The park has an amusement park titled “ Pleasure Garden” which has many kinds of rides and shows. 

Separate tickets are required for the rides.

A play area is available near the Tamago no Mori flower garden where kids can play for no extra charge.  

 The seaside train is popular among visitors as you can hop on and hop off on it as often as you like as you explore the Park’s extensive area. The one day train pass comes for a fare of 500 yen. The entire route takes about 40 mins with the train stopping at 10 places.

Bicycles can be rented at various places in the park for fee of 300 yen ( Adults) and 200 yen (children) for 3 hours. Additional 50 yen is charged for every 30 mins thereafter.

A barbecue area amidst shady pine trees is a perfect spot for a weekend barbecue. Reservations are necessary (029-265-9002). Grilling equipment is also available.

Address: 605-4, Mawatari Aza, Oonuma, Hitachi naka city, Ibaraki prefecture.

Phone: 029-265-9001

Opening Hours: 9:30-17:00 hrs (closes early in winter)

Closing days: Monday ( Tuesday if Monday is public holiday)

Entrance fees: 400 yen for Adults

                       200 yen for Senior citizens

                       Elementary and Junior High school students: 80 yen.

                       Children under 6 free

(Printed English guide and map available at entrance)

   

Parking : Ample space available. Normal car 500 yen for one day parking.

Hana Matsuri- Celebrating Buddha's Birthday

Gautama Buddha, was born in 563 BC in the gardens of Lumbini, a city in Nepal to the Indian king Shuddhodana and his wife Queen Maya. He was known as Prince Siddhartha and led a prince’s life, married Princess Yashodhara and had a son Rahul. At the age of 29, while on a trip in his kingdom, he was deeply moved by the sights of poverty and illness of his subjects and he renounced his princely life to lead the life of a mendicant. At the age of 35 he attained enlightenment while meditating under a Peepal tree in the Indian city of Gaya. He came to be known as Gautama Buddha, the Awakened one and his preachings came to be known as Buddhism and his followers Buddhists. Buddhism then spread to various countries in East Asia and the local influence led to the development of various branches of Buddhism.

Buddhism came to Japan through China and Korea somewhere in 6th century AD. I have written about  Buddhism's influence on Japanese culture and society earlier, so am not going in to the details this time.

Buddha’s birthday is celebrated in most east Asian countries on the 8^th day of the 4^th month according to the Chinese lunar calendar. As such the date varies every year. However, in Japan it is celebrated either on the 8^th of April or 8^th of May. Japan follows the Gregorian calendar and the fourth month of the Chinese lunar calendar is translated to either April or May and hence either of these two dates are chosen by the Buddhist temples in Japan to mark Buddha’s birthday. The first celebration was reportedly held in 606 in Nara’s Asuka-dera.

Buddha’s birthday is known by the name of Hana Matsuri, which literally means “Flower Festival. Perhaps this is due to the fact that the day falls in spring, a season when a variety of flowers are blooming all over Japan. The celebration is known by a variety of other names – “Kanbutsu-e”, “Goutan-e”, “Busshou-e”, “Yokubutsu-e”, “Hanaeshiki-e” etc. Buddha’s birthday ,however, is not a national holiday in Japan and is only marked by rituals and ceremonies in Buddhist temples.

Today I attended the Hana Matsuri at my daughter’s kindergarten. She attends a kindergarten which is managed by a Buddhist temple in Iwaki. It was an interesting experience for me. The children arrived at the temple and prayed. The priest then addressed the gathering , explaining the significance of the day.  

They then changed into colourful attire, not the regular kimono’s but dresses which are usually worn by priests and shrine maidens. 

After this they performed a dance in front of the temple.

 After the dance, they were led to a small adjoining building, which had a small prayer hall with an altar.

 In front of the altar , small flower decorated altars, known as “ Hana mido” were placed.

Inside the Hana-mido, small statue of Buddha was placed in  a shallow metal bowl. The statue represents the infant Buddha. It is believed that immediately after his birth, Buddha raised and took seven steps forward and while pointing his right hand to the heavens, he is said to have proclaimed – “Tenjou tenga yuiga dokuson” which means  “ I am honoured in heaven and on earth”. It is also believed that the infant Buddha was sprinkled  with perfume by the dragon kings “Ryuu” and also a gently perfumed nectar rain had bathed infant Buddha. As a re-creation of these beliefs, the Kanbutsu-e ceremony was performed wherein the children poured “Ama-cha” a sweet tea prepared with hydrangea leaf.

After this ceremony, the children posed for a commemorative photograph in their colourful attire.